Hello all,
I'm so sorry I haven't been able to update lately - I've been busy. Between planning lessons, going to book club, meeting friends for coffee, volunteering, and making it to the gym or pool I have a busier life here than I had ever imagined - but I love it. I think you'll be pleased with this belated entry however, and I even have a surprise for you at the end. Let's continue on, for all of you who just read the end and spoiled the surprise.
So, I could go on and on about how much I love it here, and what I've been keeping busy with, but that might get a little redundant for you. I've told you a lot about my life here, and most recently about my travels in South Asia. I also mentioned that when I returned from my trip, I was infused with a fresh love for Korea - it was clean, modern, exciting, and there was an endless supply of kimchi. I was excited to dive back into my Korea explorations, as I only had five months left to do it all, so I started as soon as I could, taking advantage of my three day weekend due to my school's birthday. (Lucky me for working at a school born on a Friday)
During the three and a half hour bus ride out east to the city of Gyeongju, I began a fascinating book about Korea at the turn of the twentieth century, during the time of the Japanese occupation. My mind was completely preoccupied with how far Korea had come since its days of occupation, as I zipped (more like a fast meander, as I was on a bus) through the rolling hills and beautiful scenery. However, when I arrived in Gyeongju, I had to move my thoughts back on the timeline about one thousand years in Korea's history. Gyeongju is a special place in Korea, most notably for its history, still existing sacred Buddhist temples, and unique preservation of the ancient capital it once was. It is a popular tourist destination, for both Koreans and foreigners alike. To better understand Gyeongju I have some history for you here: please bear with me...or just skip down a couple of paragraphs just like you skipped ahead to the end already.
Historically, Korea has been known as 'The Hermit Kingdom,' due to its desire to remain unbothered by foreign influences. As you may recall back from what your teacher might have said in your history classes, (this may be a little fuzzy because you were in between naps at the moment, of course) that hasn't worked out very well for Korea. Because of its strategic location, smack dab in between Japan, who tried to take over all of Asia not even a century ago, and China, who has dominated the North Asian continent for as long as history can remember, and also directly south of Russia, who has seen Korea as a tasty little addition to gain a warm water sea port for centuries past. Poor Korea - as a result it has been fought and disputed over, treated unfairly in foreign treaties, and even directly or indirectly occupied by the aforementioned countries at one time or another. But that's getting into more recent history here; I want to go back even farther to about the seventh century AD, when Korea was a peaceful, thriving, cultural jewel of Asia.
Around the time of Jesus Christ, Korea's history had been going strong for about two thousand years. In the beginning of the millennium Korea (this is the entire Korean peninsula, not with North and South distinctions) was basically split up into three kingdoms (conveniently titled 'the Three Kingdoms period.') Each kingdom developed its own unique culture, but it wasn't until the three kingdoms were united in 668 AD by the Silla King Munmu (isn't that a great name?) that Korean culture really took off, centered around the Silla (pronounced Shilla) capital of Korea, Gyeongju. There was a thriving Buddhist culture, a flourishing arts culture, scientific development and discoveries, and an overall sense of peace and prosperity. Of course, all good things have to come to an end, and by 935 AD the Goryo (pronounced Koryo, where the name Korea came from) people to the north peacefully subjugated (yes, the books say it was a peaceful acquisition and surrender) the Silla kingdom, moving the capital to the center of the country. It wasn't until the fifteenth century that the Joseon kingdom was established, which established the modern day capital, Seoul.
Though Gyeongju has been sacked a couple of times, first by the Mongols and then by the Japanese, it has remained remarkably preserved and kept as authentic as possible. In the old center of the city, now a pleasant walking and tourist park, home and building owners weren't allowed to construct any tall or modern designs - all of that is saved for the new part of the city just across the way. The main attractions in Gyeongju are the old city center and walking parks, Anapji Pond, a pleasure garden and pond built by King Munmu himself, the new National Museum, and the Buddhist temple and shrines up in the nearby mountains. I arrived in Gyeongju early on Friday afternoon, had some coffee and checked into my hostel (recommended in Rough Guide Korea, and described as 'charmingly grubby' - they were right on the money.) Then, I was ready to start exploring and delve back into some medieval history.
My first adventure was to two of the most famous sights in Gyeongju: Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto. Both were important sites of Buddhist worship during the Silla kingdom, and have since been touche
d up and well preserved. I hopped on the city bus, fully equipped for ignorant foreigners with maps and English translations of the stops plastered on the sides - nice to know they think of us. I realized on the way up to Bulguksa that I probably wouldn't have time for Seokguram as well that afternoon, since the buses stop running in the early evening, but at least I would know what to do to get there the next day. Bulguksa was impressive - the biggest Buddhist temple complex I have ever been to - restored and set in a beautiful location on the mountainside. We weren't allowed to take pictures of the inside o
f the temple, but I was especially curious 
about Korean Buddhism now that I've learned more about Tibetan, Indian, and Sri Lankan traditions and customs, so I spent some time peeking inside, noting similarities and differences. Buddhism came to Korea via China in the 4th century AD, but due to a convergence of mixed beliefs and traditions, it developed into its own unique Buddhist sect, one that I plan on learning more about in the future for curiosity's sake. By the way, yes, that's a swastika, but no, it's not a throwback to Nazi support from the 1940s - the swastika is the traditional symbol for Korean Buddhism - it took a little while to get used to seeing it all over the place here. I spent a happy hour wandering in the sun, admiring the beautiful traditional architecture and enjoying the scenery.
After Bulguksa, indeed I didn't have enough time to make it to Seokguram, so instead I bused back to the old city center for a walk through Tumuli Park. What is Tumuli Park? Well, think of the word Tumuli, or just Tumu. What does that sounds like? Did I hear you say tomb-u? Yes, you're right. Ten points for you. Tumuli Park is, in fact, made up of tombs. But not just any tombs - these are giant, larger than life, grassy hill tombs that you aren't allowed to climb on, despite the enormous temptation to. Think of the Pyramids of Giza - why were they built? As tombs to honor the Pharoah. Same same in Korea, just the size is toned down a bit. (By the way, I don't know if I've talked about same same yet, but it's basically the running joke that English teachers always use to help teach a new word or phrase that is similar to somethi
ng the kids already know, like the words nervous and anxious. For basic purposes, we just say same same. The kids love it, teachers love it, everyone laughs at it. My personal favorite useage of same same is when one of my kids tried to teach me the word 'lie' in Korean by shouting out "BAHNG SAME SAME LIYEEE!")
So, think Tumuli same same Pyramids...but smaller...and a lot younger. I reached the park at sunset, and had it pretty much to myself. In a sense, I suppose the tombs should have been creepy at night, but I mostly thought they were pretty cool. Luckily, one of the tomb's interior is actually open for public viewing (not the body itself, obviously,) so you can see how the tombs were c
onstructed. I wasn't supposed to take pictures...but I did because I was the only one there, so feel lucky you get to see this: you can see how the body and possessions (many of the artifacts in the National Museum are from tomb excavations) were kept in a box like structure, which was then covered with piles and piles of rocks.
I had a nice stroll and picture taking session until it got dark, and then I stopped to eat some ssambap, the regional special of Gyeongju. This is basically a compilation of rice, tons of pickled veggies, fis
h soup, seaweed soup, pork, and lettuce to wrap your meat in, along with soybean sauce, spicy pepper sauce, and some weird stuff that I didn't even touch after I tried it. Yes, this is all for one person - order with two people and you get double - I didn't realize what a meal it was until I sat down and ordered. Luckily, you're not really supposed to finish Korean meals.
After eating my fill of ssambap, I decided to take another stroll around my hostel area. After checking out a couple more tombs opposite Tumuli Park (guess they didn't make the cut for the park...I got to see them for free) This one even h
ad the emblem of Gyeongju projected on it. I ended up stumbling into the modern city downtown, which was much like Gwangju's, but less crazy and more small town. I had fun walking around and looking at all the stores and coffee shops (my personal favorite: Le Tango du Chat.) ready to see some more sights bright and early. Though I paid for a shared room because I wanted to go cheap, I lucked out in that there were no other guests that night (it's off tourist season) so I had the giant room to myself.
The next morning I headed off to Seokguram Grotto, which is basically a small shrine and temple carved out of the rockface, high up near the top of the mountain that Bulguksa was on. Admittedly, I thought it wa
s quite small and a quick sight to see, but I could definitely appreciate it for its serene beauty and prime location, hidden high in the mountains. It is actually considered one of the best examples of Buddhist art in Korea. I wasn't allowed to take pictures, but if you look at that hump of earth behind the top of the temple, that's basically where the Buddha's head is - it's quite large inside, and extremely well preserved. We had to be quiet and respectful as there were people inside the actual temple praying and giving offerings, so we just shuffled through, admired quickly, and went on our way.
After Seokguram, it was time for what I had come so far to finally see: the National Museum, second in prestige and ancient Korean artifacts only to Seoul National. I found out the museum itself was actua
lly a museum complex, with an Art Hall, outdoor statues and relics, a children's museum, an archaeological 
museum, and even a special exhibitions hall. It was a nice sunny afternoon, and I
walked around the complex to orient myself before touring the exhibits. I'm always a sucker for a good Buddha statue, and Gyeongju National didn't disappoint: the place was packed full of them. The archaeological museum was definitely my favorite, as it had many artifacts from the royalty of Gyeongju - pictured is the crown and belt that one of the old kings used to wear, and a golden sheath and dagger
.
After the museum I visited Anapji Pond, the beautiful pleasure pond that King Munmu built and had stocked with fish and animals for his personal enjoyment (pictured) and finished with a walk through Wolseong Park. Bo
th outdoor locations were the perfect setting for families to come tour, visit, explore, or just hang out at - I saw many picnics and kite fliers.
I was satisfied with my trip and glad I had done it alone, so I could tour and explore at my own leisure. So, back to Gwangju I headed, but not before I picked up a box of hangwampangg, the special red-bean paste sweet bread (trust me, it tastes better than it sounds) that Gyeongju is known for, to bring to school on Monday for my teachers.
I will never forget that bus ride home to Gwangju, as it was the craziest emotional roller coaster ride of my life. As I settled back for my long trip home, Korea history book in hand, I realized that it was nearly the 19th of March, which would mark (my Dad's birthday, for one) my seventh month in Korea...meaning I only had five months left. Even though I could now check Gyeongju off my list, that meant that only one of many many cities I still wanted to explore was covered - in short, there just wasn't enough time to see everything I wanted to. As you know, I am here in Korea on a one year contract that is due to end August 20th. I was planning to spend the next year traveling and teaching around various countries and continents, with many programs and contacts in the works but nothing set in stone. About twenty minutes into the bus ride, I began to consider the thought of staying another year, though very cautiously. As I thought through it more thoroughly, it seemed the only thing holding me back was my dream to take off and travel at large after I had finished working for a year. Then I realized...I was already living my dream. I'm living abroad, I have a great job, amazing friends, (both here and those I still talk to back home who have been wonderfully supportive of me) I'm learning a new language and culture, I'm exploring a whole new country, and I've been lucky enough to travel outside of Korea as well. Though I hate to have money as a priority in my life, another draw was that the financial benefits of staying a second year would really put me in good shape with my student loans, travel budget, and future savings. I was already feeling heartbroken about having to leave my students and co workers, as well as my city. All of these thoughts were overwhelmingly spinning in my head at once, until all of a sudden it became clear to me.
I'm staying. I'm going to renew my contract and stay another full year in Korea. I've only told a few people, and I haven't even told my coteachers yet - I'm waiting until they approach me about the contract - but everything should be finalized within the next month. I have a few more options now for coming home, but for now I'm really not sure when I'll be back or what I'll do after Korea - I have a year and a half to decide now. Another surprise I received this week was learning that my two childhood friends Lauren and Emily are officially coming to visit me at the end of July. And of course, I'm eagerly anticipating the arrival of my mom and stepdad in less than two weeks. I can't believe they will be here so soon!
So start researching tickets to Korea, because I'm not sure if I can go for another year without seeing some of you. I hope you all have a wonderful rest of the week and weekend, take care!
So, I could go on and on about how much I love it here, and what I've been keeping busy with, but that might get a little redundant for you. I've told you a lot about my life here, and most recently about my travels in South Asia. I also mentioned that when I returned from my trip, I was infused with a fresh love for Korea - it was clean, modern, exciting, and there was an endless supply of kimchi. I was excited to dive back into my Korea explorations, as I only had five months left to do it all, so I started as soon as I could, taking advantage of my three day weekend due to my school's birthday. (Lucky me for working at a school born on a Friday)
During the three and a half hour bus ride out east to the city of Gyeongju, I began a fascinating book about Korea at the turn of the twentieth century, during the time of the Japanese occupation. My mind was completely preoccupied with how far Korea had come since its days of occupation, as I zipped (more like a fast meander, as I was on a bus) through the rolling hills and beautiful scenery. However, when I arrived in Gyeongju, I had to move my thoughts back on the timeline about one thousand years in Korea's history. Gyeongju is a special place in Korea, most notably for its history, still existing sacred Buddhist temples, and unique preservation of the ancient capital it once was. It is a popular tourist destination, for both Koreans and foreigners alike. To better understand Gyeongju I have some history for you here: please bear with me...or just skip down a couple of paragraphs just like you skipped ahead to the end already.
Historically, Korea has been known as 'The Hermit Kingdom,' due to its desire to remain unbothered by foreign influences. As you may recall back from what your teacher might have said in your history classes, (this may be a little fuzzy because you were in between naps at the moment, of course) that hasn't worked out very well for Korea. Because of its strategic location, smack dab in between Japan, who tried to take over all of Asia not even a century ago, and China, who has dominated the North Asian continent for as long as history can remember, and also directly south of Russia, who has seen Korea as a tasty little addition to gain a warm water sea port for centuries past. Poor Korea - as a result it has been fought and disputed over, treated unfairly in foreign treaties, and even directly or indirectly occupied by the aforementioned countries at one time or another. But that's getting into more recent history here; I want to go back even farther to about the seventh century AD, when Korea was a peaceful, thriving, cultural jewel of Asia.
Around the time of Jesus Christ, Korea's history had been going strong for about two thousand years. In the beginning of the millennium Korea (this is the entire Korean peninsula, not with North and South distinctions) was basically split up into three kingdoms (conveniently titled 'the Three Kingdoms period.') Each kingdom developed its own unique culture, but it wasn't until the three kingdoms were united in 668 AD by the Silla King Munmu (isn't that a great name?) that Korean culture really took off, centered around the Silla (pronounced Shilla) capital of Korea, Gyeongju. There was a thriving Buddhist culture, a flourishing arts culture, scientific development and discoveries, and an overall sense of peace and prosperity. Of course, all good things have to come to an end, and by 935 AD the Goryo (pronounced Koryo, where the name Korea came from) people to the north peacefully subjugated (yes, the books say it was a peaceful acquisition and surrender) the Silla kingdom, moving the capital to the center of the country. It wasn't until the fifteenth century that the Joseon kingdom was established, which established the modern day capital, Seoul.
Though Gyeongju has been sacked a couple of times, first by the Mongols and then by the Japanese, it has remained remarkably preserved and kept as authentic as possible. In the old center of the city, now a pleasant walking and tourist park, home and building owners weren't allowed to construct any tall or modern designs - all of that is saved for the new part of the city just across the way. The main attractions in Gyeongju are the old city center and walking parks, Anapji Pond, a pleasure garden and pond built by King Munmu himself, the new National Museum, and the Buddhist temple and shrines up in the nearby mountains. I arrived in Gyeongju early on Friday afternoon, had some coffee and checked into my hostel (recommended in Rough Guide Korea, and described as 'charmingly grubby' - they were right on the money.) Then, I was ready to start exploring and delve back into some medieval history.
My first adventure was to two of the most famous sights in Gyeongju: Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto. Both were important sites of Buddhist worship during the Silla kingdom, and have since been touche
d up and well preserved. I hopped on the city bus, fully equipped for ignorant foreigners with maps and English translations of the stops plastered on the sides - nice to know they think of us. I realized on the way up to Bulguksa that I probably wouldn't have time for Seokguram as well that afternoon, since the buses stop running in the early evening, but at least I would know what to do to get there the next day. Bulguksa was impressive - the biggest Buddhist temple complex I have ever been to - restored and set in a beautiful location on the mountainside. We weren't allowed to take pictures of the inside o
f the temple, but I was especially curious 
about Korean Buddhism now that I've learned more about Tibetan, Indian, and Sri Lankan traditions and customs, so I spent some time peeking inside, noting similarities and differences. Buddhism came to Korea via China in the 4th century AD, but due to a convergence of mixed beliefs and traditions, it developed into its own unique Buddhist sect, one that I plan on learning more about in the future for curiosity's sake. By the way, yes, that's a swastika, but no, it's not a throwback to Nazi support from the 1940s - the swastika is the traditional symbol for Korean Buddhism - it took a little while to get used to seeing it all over the place here. I spent a happy hour wandering in the sun, admiring the beautiful traditional architecture and enjoying the scenery. After Bulguksa, indeed I didn't have enough time to make it to Seokguram, so instead I bused back to the old city center for a walk through Tumuli Park. What is Tumuli Park? Well, think of the word Tumuli, or just Tumu. What does that sounds like? Did I hear you say tomb-u? Yes, you're right. Ten points for you. Tumuli Park is, in fact, made up of tombs. But not just any tombs - these are giant, larger than life, grassy hill tombs that you aren't allowed to climb on, despite the enormous temptation to. Think of the Pyramids of Giza - why were they built? As tombs to honor the Pharoah. Same same in Korea, just the size is toned down a bit. (By the way, I don't know if I've talked about same same yet, but it's basically the running joke that English teachers always use to help teach a new word or phrase that is similar to somethi
ng the kids already know, like the words nervous and anxious. For basic purposes, we just say same same. The kids love it, teachers love it, everyone laughs at it. My personal favorite useage of same same is when one of my kids tried to teach me the word 'lie' in Korean by shouting out "BAHNG SAME SAME LIYEEE!")So, think Tumuli same same Pyramids...but smaller...and a lot younger. I reached the park at sunset, and had it pretty much to myself. In a sense, I suppose the tombs should have been creepy at night, but I mostly thought they were pretty cool. Luckily, one of the tomb's interior is actually open for public viewing (not the body itself, obviously,) so you can see how the tombs were c
onstructed. I wasn't supposed to take pictures...but I did because I was the only one there, so feel lucky you get to see this: you can see how the body and possessions (many of the artifacts in the National Museum are from tomb excavations) were kept in a box like structure, which was then covered with piles and piles of rocks.I had a nice stroll and picture taking session until it got dark, and then I stopped to eat some ssambap, the regional special of Gyeongju. This is basically a compilation of rice, tons of pickled veggies, fis
h soup, seaweed soup, pork, and lettuce to wrap your meat in, along with soybean sauce, spicy pepper sauce, and some weird stuff that I didn't even touch after I tried it. Yes, this is all for one person - order with two people and you get double - I didn't realize what a meal it was until I sat down and ordered. Luckily, you're not really supposed to finish Korean meals.After eating my fill of ssambap, I decided to take another stroll around my hostel area. After checking out a couple more tombs opposite Tumuli Park (guess they didn't make the cut for the park...I got to see them for free) This one even h
ad the emblem of Gyeongju projected on it. I ended up stumbling into the modern city downtown, which was much like Gwangju's, but less crazy and more small town. I had fun walking around and looking at all the stores and coffee shops (my personal favorite: Le Tango du Chat.) ready to see some more sights bright and early. Though I paid for a shared room because I wanted to go cheap, I lucked out in that there were no other guests that night (it's off tourist season) so I had the giant room to myself.The next morning I headed off to Seokguram Grotto, which is basically a small shrine and temple carved out of the rockface, high up near the top of the mountain that Bulguksa was on. Admittedly, I thought it wa
s quite small and a quick sight to see, but I could definitely appreciate it for its serene beauty and prime location, hidden high in the mountains. It is actually considered one of the best examples of Buddhist art in Korea. I wasn't allowed to take pictures, but if you look at that hump of earth behind the top of the temple, that's basically where the Buddha's head is - it's quite large inside, and extremely well preserved. We had to be quiet and respectful as there were people inside the actual temple praying and giving offerings, so we just shuffled through, admired quickly, and went on our way. After Seokguram, it was time for what I had come so far to finally see: the National Museum, second in prestige and ancient Korean artifacts only to Seoul National. I found out the museum itself was actua
lly a museum complex, with an Art Hall, outdoor statues and relics, a children's museum, an archaeological 
museum, and even a special exhibitions hall. It was a nice sunny afternoon, and I
walked around the complex to orient myself before touring the exhibits. I'm always a sucker for a good Buddha statue, and Gyeongju National didn't disappoint: the place was packed full of them. The archaeological museum was definitely my favorite, as it had many artifacts from the royalty of Gyeongju - pictured is the crown and belt that one of the old kings used to wear, and a golden sheath and dagger.
After the museum I visited Anapji Pond, the beautiful pleasure pond that King Munmu built and had stocked with fish and animals for his personal enjoyment (pictured) and finished with a walk through Wolseong Park. Bo
th outdoor locations were the perfect setting for families to come tour, visit, explore, or just hang out at - I saw many picnics and kite fliers.I was satisfied with my trip and glad I had done it alone, so I could tour and explore at my own leisure. So, back to Gwangju I headed, but not before I picked up a box of hangwampangg, the special red-bean paste sweet bread (trust me, it tastes better than it sounds) that Gyeongju is known for, to bring to school on Monday for my teachers.
I will never forget that bus ride home to Gwangju, as it was the craziest emotional roller coaster ride of my life. As I settled back for my long trip home, Korea history book in hand, I realized that it was nearly the 19th of March, which would mark (my Dad's birthday, for one) my seventh month in Korea...meaning I only had five months left. Even though I could now check Gyeongju off my list, that meant that only one of many many cities I still wanted to explore was covered - in short, there just wasn't enough time to see everything I wanted to. As you know, I am here in Korea on a one year contract that is due to end August 20th. I was planning to spend the next year traveling and teaching around various countries and continents, with many programs and contacts in the works but nothing set in stone. About twenty minutes into the bus ride, I began to consider the thought of staying another year, though very cautiously. As I thought through it more thoroughly, it seemed the only thing holding me back was my dream to take off and travel at large after I had finished working for a year. Then I realized...I was already living my dream. I'm living abroad, I have a great job, amazing friends, (both here and those I still talk to back home who have been wonderfully supportive of me) I'm learning a new language and culture, I'm exploring a whole new country, and I've been lucky enough to travel outside of Korea as well. Though I hate to have money as a priority in my life, another draw was that the financial benefits of staying a second year would really put me in good shape with my student loans, travel budget, and future savings. I was already feeling heartbroken about having to leave my students and co workers, as well as my city. All of these thoughts were overwhelmingly spinning in my head at once, until all of a sudden it became clear to me.
I'm staying. I'm going to renew my contract and stay another full year in Korea. I've only told a few people, and I haven't even told my coteachers yet - I'm waiting until they approach me about the contract - but everything should be finalized within the next month. I have a few more options now for coming home, but for now I'm really not sure when I'll be back or what I'll do after Korea - I have a year and a half to decide now. Another surprise I received this week was learning that my two childhood friends Lauren and Emily are officially coming to visit me at the end of July. And of course, I'm eagerly anticipating the arrival of my mom and stepdad in less than two weeks. I can't believe they will be here so soon!
So start researching tickets to Korea, because I'm not sure if I can go for another year without seeing some of you. I hope you all have a wonderful rest of the week and weekend, take care!
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