Beautiful South Africa

I hope everyone’s summer has been off to a great start – I haven’t really felt like I’ve hit summer yet, as it’s winter here in the southern hemisphere, so most days I’ve needed jeans and long sleeves. Except when I’m in Durban, which calls for short sleeves and shorts during the day when it’s sunny out. I’m pretty much confused all the time about what season it’s supposed to be, which results in wearing lots of layers so that I’m prepared for anything. I’m back at Katie’s house in Durban now, and after spending a lovely 25^th birthday with her family yesterday, I have just one day left before flying out tomorrow. I’ve had a whirlwind month of traveling and spending time with my friends – now it’s just about over, and I have to start looking ahead to going home and preparing for Russia this fall.       

                                                                                                                                                                

South Africa is a pretty hot topic at the moment, due to both President Obama’s recent visit and to Nelson Mandela’s health. Mandela has been hospitalized for over three weeks now, and though the report has been up and down, at the moment he appears to be recovering. We were all holding our breaths for a little while, but now it seems like he’ll be hanging on a little while longer, as incredible as that is. As far as President Obama’s visit, due to our top secret (covert, if you will) advance notice, my friends and I actually previewed some of his excursions in South Africa before he got here – you know, to make sure everything was in order and in top shape for the American President.  Here’s a run down of what I’ve been up to the past month, with the best tour guides anyone could have asked for, the Askew family, to get an insider’s perspective of the country. I would have recommended them to Obama, but they were booked up last weekend.

Sani Pass

I can now say that I’ve had a drink at the Highest Pub in Africa. However, you have no idea how hard it was to reach that achievement. Although I’m glad I did it, I will say I have no desire to ever climb up that trail again…at least not in 130 kilometer per hour winds. Actually, I guess any wind speed below 130 kph would be better than before, so maybe I would do it again. Not anytime soon though.

After saying goodbye to Katie’s family, I met up with Jason’s family in a different part of the Drakensberg Mountains, this time in a place called Underberg. Sani Pass, which means ‘pass of the San people,’ is actually one of the gateways between South Africa and Lesotho, one of the two landlocked countries in South Africa. It’s a very tiny, mountainous country, and its name translates to ‘land of the people who speak Sesotho.’

These Sesotho-speakers must have also been excellent climbers, because entering Lesotho through Sani Pass requires an 8 km (4.5 miles) hike up a windy dirt road. Our group, which was Jason’s family plus some of his dad’s work colleagues, started off the morning at the bottom of said road, after getting our passports stamped with an exit stamp from South Africa – Sani Pass is technically ‘no man’s land,’ until you either enter Lesotho at the top or return to South Africa once you’ve been up. The plan was for whoever wanted to walk to walk, with Jason’s dad driving the SUV behind us, in case someone didn’t want to keep going or needed a break. I was pretty determined to do the hike, and enjoyed the first half of it very much – though it was chilly, it was still a clear day, very beautiful and peaceful.

Then we hit about halfway, and things began to change. The temperature dropped and the wind picked up. This was tolerable at first, but it soon got to be so windy that it was blowing dust in our faces and turning our hands to ice blocks. At this point we were only a few kms from the top though, and Jason and I hadn’t been UWGB swimmers for nothing. We were determined, and pushed through, even though we had to actually stop at some moments because the wind was so forceful that we were afraid we’d get blown right off the edge. The good news was that by the top I was so numb that my legs didn’t hurt anymore! However, the bad news was that I couldn’t even move my hands to take a picture once we got to the top. But of course, we were at the highest pub in Africa at that point, so of course we were able to order some hot drinks right away to warm us up. From there it was a very enjoyable time, as we sat in the cozy little chalet and enjoyed the views, though the wind was blowing so fiercely that the stove was rattling from the chimney. We braved the wind once more to go to Lesotho’s immigration office, impressive as it was, and get our passports stamped, then thankfully we had the SUV to take us back down to South Africa. It was a great experience and fun to do with a group, but again, I don’t think I’m in any rush to do that one again. 

Johannesburg

After Sani Pass, we returned to Johannesburg on Sunday, then after patiently waiting all week, Jason and I headed to the airport Saturday morning to pick up Allie and Travis. They arrived, slightly jet lagged yet excited to explore, so then after taking them to Jason’s house we went for a drive in Johannesburg. Again, to make sure everything would be a-okay for Obama. It seemed pretty unfair to try and explain the past century of South Africa’s history to them in their state, so instead we just did a quick tour to Constitution Hill, the site of the former Old Fort prison that held dozens of political prisoners throughout the twentieth century. Today it is the site of South Africa’s Constitutional Court, as well as three museums detailing the nation’s history and focusing on the former political prisoners and their struggle for freedom and democracy.

From Constitution Hill we drove to Sandton, one of the richest suburbs in the country, also known as “the richest square mile in Africa.” We checked out Nelson Mandela Square (guess which picture that is) and enjoyed walking around the pretty area. The irony of Sandton is that it is just a few miles away from Alexandra, an impoverished township. In the picture you can see Sandton’s tallest buildings at the top, with Alexandra’s shanties below. South Africa, though considered a third world country, is a land of contradictions as it also holds a large amount of the continent’s wealth, thanks to a very small percentage of the population. The disparity between the poor and the rich is pretty evident nearly everywhere in the country, whether it is driving by a poor township on the side of the road, being approached by a beggar at a stoplight, or seeing mothers with their children simply sitting at the side of the road, with nowhere else to go. Though I had been exposed to similar situations of poverty in other third world countries I’ve traveled to, it was all pretty new for Allie and Travis, though they handled it well. 

Sandton at the top, Alexandra below.

Reunited after three years. 

Once we got back to Jason’s, we got ourselves ready to go watch a rugby game on the big screen at a nearby pub. To me, rugby is like football except they don’t start and stop all the time, and they wear funny little shorts. I do understand more about the game though, thanks to Jason, and the game was fun to watch in the sports bar atmosphere, mostly due to the fact that the four of us were all together again for the first time in over three years. And possibly because we were sampling many different kinds of South African beers at the same time, to get the full cultural experience. It was a fun night.

Cape Town

As you might imagine, the next morning wasn’t so fun when we all had to get up and get ourselves to the airport early in the morning, but we survived. After a quick two hour flight, we landed in sunny skies in the beautiful city of Cape Town. In fact, Cape Town has been ranked as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I have to say, compared to the cities I have traveled to and explored, in my book Cape Town is the most picturesque, rivaled only by Sydney, Australia.  Part of its beauty, of course, is due to the stunning weather we experienced in Cape Town for nearly three days – nearly unheard of in the winter months. We got lucky.

However, we didn’t know how long the great weather would last, so within three hours of landing we got ourselves checked into our hostel and up to the top of Table Mountain, the most iconic image of Cape Town. The views from the top were beautiful every which way you turned, and though it was pretty windy and chilly we spent nearly three hours just taking pictures, enjoying the view, and drinking wine while watching the sunset. It was the perfect introduction to Cape Town, and I decided that I didn’t even care if the weather was nice for the rest of the trip, since we had gotten such a beautiful day for Table Mountain.

Cape Town at sunset. 

But, as luck would have it, the next day was just as gorgeous as the day before. Allie and Travis had signed up to do shark cage diving, which was a full day excursion, but Jason and I chose to stay behind and explore a little more of Cape Town. A friend of Jason's, Matt, came to join us, so after eating breakfast we decided to split up for a while so we could all enjoy our respective activities. The boys went swimming at one of the beaches while I went to the District 6 Museum, which detailed the forced removal of an entire neighborhood of Cape Town due to the apartheid law entitled the 'Group Areas Act.' Basically, the area the very multicultural and ethnic neighborhood was located became a 'whites only' area, and all the current residents were forced to move to the outskirts of the city. The museum included many first hand accounts of those who had been kicked out of their homes, and provided another insightful look into the apartheid years. Recently, efforts have been made to give back some of the people their land and homes, and parts of the area have been preserved, but it will take a long time to rectify such actions against the former residents of District 6. 

Hout Bay. 

After enjoying my solo museum time, the boys came to pick me up and we took a lovely drive around the other side of Table Mountain, full of bays and beautiful beaches. We stopped to have a drink at one of the ritzier beaches, Clifton, and then drove along Camps Bay (pictured below) until we reached Hout Bay, a lovely little harbor with lots of fishing boats. In Hout Bay we had deliciously cheap fish and chips, while sitting on a dock and enjoying the views. We stayed there until it was nearly sunset, then headed back to the city to pick up Allie and Travis. Our destination for the evening was Simon's Town, another little bay about 40 minutes outside of the city, where Matt's aunt owned a B&B that she generously let us stay at.   

Camps Bay and the 'Twelve Apostles.'

The next morning we were treated to breakfast at our luxurious B&B, but we had to leave shortly after in order to make the 11:00 ferry to Robben Island. Again, because Obama was coming to visit Robben Island we obviously had to go there first. So, we made it on the ferry in the nick of time, and after half an hour of gazing at the views of the retreating Table Mountain, we had arrived at Robben Island.

I learned that the island was originally used as a leper colony, which then turned into a prison while it was still a British colony. During World War II it was even fortified to provide extra defense against Cape Town. It didn’t become a political prison until 1961, and then it became a haven for freedom fighters, including the current president and ANC leader Jacob Zuma, former president Nelson Mandela, Walter Sisulu, the lawyer who helped Mandela enter the political arena, and many more famous names.  

Nelson Mandela's prison cell. 

We all commented on the irony that from Robben Island, only a few km marked the distance between the prisoners and the free world of Cape Town, clearly visible from the shores. However, the few kms were everything to those prisoners who couldn’t swim, or who had a fear of sharks or cold water. It was a cruel fate for those imprisoned there, but it was astounding to learn how the political prisoners made the best of it. They used their time off, when they weren’t performing hard labor, to read and study. A few even received degrees from Robben Island, including one man who is currently a judge on the South African Constitutional Court. Those who were educated took advantage of the time they had to talk to other prisoners and teach them what they knew, receiving other’s education in return. Political ideals and positive spirits for the future of South Africa were kept alive even in the darkest of times. As Obama declared after he visited Robben Island just a couple of days ago:

“The world is grateful for the heroes of Robben Island, who remind us that no shackles or cells can match the strength of the human spirit.”

We all agreed that Robben Island had been a worthwhile excursion. We returned to the Cape Town Waterfront and enjoyed a wonderful seafood lunch in the last few rays of sunshine for the day. Our luck with the weather had just about run out, so we headed back via a drive called Chapman's Peak, where the views were dark and obscured but still impressive.   

We spent the cloudy evening at the B&B, then packed up our things the next morning to get ready for our evening flight. On our way out of Simon's Town we stopped at Boulder's Beach, famous for the local penguins that like to hang out on its shores (can you see them in the picture?) We could have paid more to get down closer to them, but we had more pressing matters on our mind. 

Boulders Beach. 

I was about to have my first wine tasting experience. We were all pretty amateur, but in Cape Town, where some of the best wine in the world is produced due to its Mediterranean climate, wine tasting is a must. We drove to Stellenbosch, an area famous for its numerous wine farms, and walked in. We paid to sample three different kinds, then got to sit in a beautifully decorated room and do nothing but enjoy the experience and taste the differences in wine. Having excelled in my affinity for very cheap boxed wine, which began on my first trip to Europe and has seen me through many countries, I thought everything tasted great, but by the end I could even taste some differences, and use fancy terms such as 'fruity' and 'yummy' with obvious expertise. 

Cheers!

After hitting up two wine farms and a brandy farm, the afternoon seemed to rapidly disappear, and before we knew it it was time to head to the airport. We returned the rental car, checked in for our flights, and zipped our way back to Johannesburg. I was still marveling at the luck we had with weather, and about how much we had done in such a short time. I felt like we had a great Cape Town experience, and I hope I can return someday, simply to enjoy the sights once more, even though it won't be the same without my friends. We had fun looking through pictures on the flight back and reminiscing, but our return to Joburg meant that we had to quickly get ready for our next adventure, which would begin the very next day. 

Pilanesberg

“Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up.

It knows it must run faster than the fastest lion or it will be killed.

Every morning a lion wakes up.

It knows it must outrun the slowest gazelle or it will starve to death.

It doesn’t matter whether you are a lion or a gazelle.

When the sun comes up, you better start running.”

This quote, a famous African proverb, ran through my mind often during the four days we spent at Pilanesberg National Game Reserve Park. To clarify, we went on safari.  However, I was informed very quickly upon arrival that only ‘tourists’ call it safari, and that the proper term is to actually call it a ‘game drive,’ at a ‘game reserve’ or park. It’s the exact same thing: a large section of land that is protected to preserve its natural environment, complete with the animals inherent to the region, such as lion, elephant, cheetah, etc. People treat game reserves like vacation destinations, and you can stay in a variety of lodging options, from four or five star accommodations to camping in a campground. Then, you drive. You can either go on a guided game drive, in open vehicles that will leave you freezing cold most of the time (in the winter), with potentially pompous guides who may not take you to the right places or encounter the animal of your dreams. Or, you can have Craig and Jason Askew.

We all made the drive from Johannesburg with Jason and his dad on Thursday afternoon, where we would be setting up camp in their camper van, just outside of the game park. Though we had a lot of setup to do, Jason’s dad very kindly volunteered to stay behind and finish setting up so that Jason could take us on our first game drive, since the park was to close within an hour and a half, as the sun began to go down. So, we grabbed our ‘sundowners,’ (I’m sure you can figure out what those are, but I’ll tell you anyway: it’s a beverage you drink when the sun goes down), and took off to enter the nearby park gates and go for a drive. The park provides you with a map that has the roads – both tar and dirt – marked and labeled, including the dams and watering holes, so your job is to decide where you think you’ll have the most luck and take off. The thrill about game drives is that it is plain and simple luck that leads you to the exact right moment down the perfect road where you might encounter something exciting. Like this.

Jason and his dad agreed that we had experienced incredible luck in seeing not only one, but two lions close up within the first twenty minutes of our first drive. They said sometimes you can go days on drives without seeing anything, so we were thrilled to have such an encounter. To see a lion in real life in Africa was one of Allie’s lifelong dreams, and it was so fun to be sitting next to her when it actually happened – she even had tears in her eyes. Our afternoon was made after that, but we had more luck and even saw a rhino and a hippo baby with its mama just before leaving the park for the evening.

We arrived back at the camp to find the fire going and our chairs all set up for the evening, thanks to Jason’s dad. We had a fantastic braai (barbecue) with some beers, and even though it was chilly we made it fun. We’re from the Midwest, after all.

Camping in style. 

The game park rhythm meant that we had to go to bed early in order to get up early and enter the park at its open at sunrise, so we were in our tents by 10 PM and up by 6 PM. After some hot coffee and biscuits, we were ready for some more game sightings, so we hopped in the car and took off. We stayed out for about five hours, and saw a variety of game including giraffe, kudu, more lion, hippos, rhino, impala, wildebeest, and warthog. For me, the highlight was definitely being surrounded by a group of about six elephant, as they crossed the road directly in front of the car. It was incredible to encounter all of these animals in their natural environment, just going about their daily lives. Jason explained that they are so used to the cars as part of the environment that they aren’t bothered by them, but as soon as someone tries to get out or hangs out the window, that disrupts the car’s ‘image’ in their minds, so then they start to get skittish and could possibly attack the potential intruder. Needless to say, we all heeded the warning to stay in the car, even though it was so tempting to get out at times.  

The weekend passed by quickly, as we returned from our morning drives to relax and eat, then head out again around 3 for the afternoon session. Our last evening we spent some time just sitting at this watering hole and enjoying the view, the peace, and the quiet of the African bush. The whole weekend was an incredible experience, and we got so so lucky to be shown around by Jason and his family, who have been going on game drives for years. He was like our own private guide, and taught us so much about the animals, their environments, how to spot them, and what to look for. I decided that week, between Cape Town and Pilanesberg, was my favorite week out of the past year of traveling, just because they were both such unique experiences that you can only have in that part of the world. To be doing it with my friends was the icing on the cake, and I loved every minute of being there with them. Pilanesberg was such a thrill, but our trip wasn't over just yet. 

African Sunset. 

Durban

Horizon League swimmers reunited. 

We finished off our time together in Durban, where Jason grew up. After a quick visit to his Grandma at the end of the five hour drive from Johannesburg, we, now with Jason’s sister added to the group, made our way to downtown Durban. We decided to stay in a hostel near the beachfront, so after checking in and dropping off our stuff, we headed straight to the ocean. We had drinks and dinner on the beachfront with Katie, then headed back to the hostel to meet up with some friends for a night out. One of our other former teammates, Rudy, plus another girl, Carys, who swam at Cleveland State, were both back in Durban for the holidays, so it was fun to meet up with them and catch up. 

Sunset over Durban. 

The next day we drove around the city to check out the harbor, which is the largest port in Africa, and watched Travis do ‘The Big Swing’ from the top of the Moses Mabhida Stadium, built for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. It gave him enough of an adrenaline rush to tackle the waves with us once we reached the ocean, after a delicious lunch of fish and chips on the beachfront. After having a thrilling time bodysurfing in the surf, we headed in once the sun began to set, then went back to the hostel for a community braai (they provided buns and salad, all we had to do was buy meat to grill) and some drinks with the swimmers once again.

On Wednesday morning Jason and I took Allie to see the sunrise at the beachfront – though it looked cloudy at first, it turned out to be the perfect morning, and the perfect way to end the trip. I was so happy to have done so much traveling and exploring with my best friend, along with two of our favorite teammates. We made an awesome group and all agreed it was a trip of a lifetime. Though it was sad to say goodbye, I knew I’d be following Allie, Travis, and Jason back to the States the next week, and that I would see them again this summer. 

And with that, they were gone! I was supposed to go back to Katie’s house for the remainder of my time in Durban, but it turned out half of her family had come down with a case of the highly contagious swine flu, so they didn’t want me to come to their house until Saturday. So, I stayed on the hostel for a few much needed days on my own, during which I walked around, organized my things, sorted my pictures, and started reading Nelson Mandela’s autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom. It was an excellent time to read a firsthand account of the man who has been watched by the entire world the last few weeks, to see if he will pull through or not. I felt like it was the best way to end my trip, and so much of what he talks about in South Africa's history I actually understand and can relate to. He has lived an extraordinary life, from his humble village beginnings to his law experience and school, which led into his political career and imprisonment, followed by his release and presidency.  As President Obama said, he, and his legacy, will remain an inspiration to us all. 

My second to last day in South Africa was my 25^th birthday, which I celebrated with Katie’s family. We had a wonderful day together with a long lunch, frozen yogurt, two movies, and a cake and coffee session. I wanted to spend my birthday in South Africa, and it was also a perfect fit to the end of my time here. I’ve learned so much about this beautiful country, and will be taking a part of it with me as I return to the US tomorrow. I’ve experienced tremendous hospitality, kindness, and generosity, and I hope someday I can return to see my new friends and ‘second families’ again, and see even more of the country. I'm sure Obama will be back too. 

Good Morning Durban. Photo credit: Miss Allie Thut.